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Crafty Draught – The Avenue Forsyth

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

Andre Airich and his partner Cody Anderson accomplished much before their business even opened. In a few short months they managed to change the law in Forsyth County. They successfully lobbied for a change to an alcohol ordinance, a remarkable feat here in the South. We’re not exactly known for our forward-thinking laws when it comes to booze.

What did Airich and Anderson change? Forsyth now allows retailers to break the original packaging of beer. This paves the way for growlers. What’s a growler? It’s a 64 ounce glass jug used to transport draught beer. Their newly opened beer store, the Crafty Draught, will fill your growler with one of twenty craft beers they have on-tap. It’s a new concept for this area, something I had to try.

Crafty Draught’s selection changes almost daily. It’s best to check their website ahead of time to see what’s pouring. Also be sure to check their “coming soon” page. It’s sort of an on-deck circle of beer – a list of kegs in the backroom waiting to be tapped. When they empty a keg, one of these will replace it.

Most beers are in the $10 to $12 range for the 64 oz growler portion although some can reach as high as $20. Unfortunately samples are not available. New growlers can be purchased for $5, a one-time cost.

On my visit I met co-owner Andre Airich and secretly put him to the test. I explained that I don’t like beers with a lot of hops. I also mentioned my love of Bavarian hefe-weizens. Both of these statements are true which probably completely ruins any credibility I may have with the beer drinking world.

Being wintertime their selection is geared towards a lot of stouts and IPAs. Thankfully Airich didn’t steer me towards any of these. I let him talk me into a highly-rated beer called Ommegang Abbey, a Belgium-style ale made by a microbrewery in Cooperstown, NY. Twenty bucks later I had paid for my beer and new growler. Yikes, this had better be good! How did I like it?

Airich didn’t lead me astray. The beer had a yeasty character much like the hefe-weizens I enjoy. I tasted a lot of rich flavor going on including toasted nuts and honey. I can see why this brew wins awards. It also had a higher alcohol content, something I’m not accustomed to. Let’s just say I would avoid operating heavy machinery or writing wordpress blogs while  enjoying this beer.

Airich and Anderson might make successful political lobbyist if this beer gig doesn’t work out. I doubt that career change will be necessary. Crafty Draught is a cool little shop and I wish these young men much success. If this concept catches on I’d imagine they might have some competition soon. They’re well prepared to face it in my opinion. Check them out at 415 Peachtree Parkway, across the street from the Avenue Forsyth. I also like they’re active and effective use of social media. Follow them on Facebook and twitter @CraftyDraught.

Photo Copyright Robyn Guy Photography, used with permission

Start/Stop/Continue – Alpharetta Restaurants 2012

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

It is truly pitiful that I draw blogging inspiration from stuff at work. But indeed it happens and has resulted in this yearly article, now in its third year of life! Here’s how it works…

At the office we follow this routine during annual reviews. Your peers are asked to list things you should start doing in the new year, bad habits you should stop and activities you should continue. It is sort of a kinder and gentler way of telling someone what they should or shouldn’t be doing. I’ve adapted this theme for Alpharetta’s restaurant scene.

Start – Hot Dogs

Yeah, that’s right, I want hot dogs. Or maybe I should say “haute” dogs. They’ve got the potential to be our next great food craze. Hot dogs provide the chef a platform to be creative and innovative in a lot of ways – from the toppings to the protein and even the bun. They can be versatile culinary creations or simple ballpark grub, and everything in between. On top of that, hot dog margins are better than that of say a hamburger or pizza. I’d love to see a suburban restaurateur take a chance like this.

Stop – Self-serve Frozen Yogurt

I’m totally ripping this off from last year. It didn’t take a crystal ball to realize that closures were coming in the froyo space in 2011. We lost Tutti Frutti and Yoforia on Windward. Yoforia’s Alpharetta closure was significant as this was the franchise’s first failure. Also closing was the froyo shop in the Northpoint Mall food court (can’t remember their name).

I don’t wish failure on anyone, but I really would like to see a return to real, honest-to-goodness ice cream. Is that too much to ask?

Continue – Food trucks

2011 saw at least three food trucks make the drive up GA400 to Alpharetta. It’s a trend I’d very much like to continue. The suburbs could use the diversity and creativity these guys bring up from Atlanta. I’ll write more about this topic again.

What restaurant trends would you like to see begin or end in 2012?

Photo Credit: Maura Neill (creative commons)

Big restaurant spaces

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

So you want to open a restaurant. It’s a romantic idea at first, the notion that you could put together a beautiful space with a fabulous menu. Food writers would craft eloquent prose about your culinary creations and paste beautiful photographs in glossy magazines.

And while we’re day dreaming, let’s make this big! We don’t want a strip mall space next to a frozen yogurt shop or anything. Not a chance. Go big or go home, right? We’re talking free-standing building with cavernous space and sprawling patios.

Cue the record scratching sounds. Back to the real world of 2012 for a moment… No one is opening places like this. Today most new restaurants rarely exceed 2,000 square feet. However, if you do feel so inclined to open such a monster of a restaurant, there are options available! I’ve got three spaces ready to turn your dream into reality (or possibly bankrupt you).

45 Roswell Street

If you build it, he will come? Not exactly. This restaurant space was built about three years ago and no one came. It’s in the heart of what might someday become Alpharetta’s hip downtown restaurant scene. Pure Taqueria is a stone’s throw away. La Casa is across the street.

45 Roswell is 5,300 square feet of unfinished restaurant with a 1,400 square foot patio. It’s a beautiful building with nice landscaping and decent parking. Last year a film production company nearly purchased the building but the deal fell through. It’s a shame a thriving restaurant doesn’t live here.

Rainwater – 11655 Haynes Bridge Road

The grandaddy of all empty restaurant spaces in Alpharetta. The old Rainwater restaurant building has two floors, an elevator and measures in at over 20,000 square feet . The architecture is similar to that of a vineyard estate. It’s much more than a restaurant as this place was built for events like large wedding receptions. It’s been vacant for over three years.

Champps – 7955 North Point Parkway

When Champps opened here they spent $4.5 million on the real estate, buildout and fixtures. They’ve had the building on the market for a while now but about two weeks ago they closed up shop. If you’re interested in this joint you’ll find 9,000 square feet of restaurant space, a beautiful bar, 1,500 square feet of patio and an exceedingly large kitchen.

Alpharetta Restaurant News – January 2012

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

I search a lot of sources to keep up with restaurant changes in our area. But by far my best source of information is you! My readers are always sending me emails and tweets about new joints or places that have gone tango uniform. Thanks a bunch guys!

Unfortunately you guys sent me a lot of closures. Let’s get them out of the way first…

Champps Americana – Closed
Champps has wanted out of Alpharetta for some time. They employed a broker to find a new restaurant for this space. They even went so far as to offer rent concessions if someone would take over their lease. It isn’t clear at this time if they found someone or just closed. Let’s keep a close eye on this space in the weeks to come.

Tre Vietnamese – Closed
Tre never got great reviews and their prices were a little high. They closed their doors right at the new year. I wonder if the threat of a new competitor (Saigon Cafe) played a factor in their decision?

Legends Deli – Closed
This strip mall on McGinnis Ferry is a tough one. It doesn’t have good visibility from the road and obtaining a liquor license is difficult due to school/church proximity.

Rosa’s Pizza – Closed
This is a competitive market for New York-style pizza and Rosa’s couldn’t cut it. A poor location on Jones Bridge didn’t help. It’s interesting to note that this was the original Bassano’s location. We’ll talk about them in a bit.

Movie Theater – Northpoint Mall

The operators of Northpoint mall have requested a conditional use permit from the city to allow a movie theater in a vacant anchor store. One must assume this is the Parisian space. The mall did not identify which chain is interested in this location but I’m told we will know in a few weeks.

I wonder if it will be a dinner/movie combination along the lines of Studio Movie Grill (perhaps AMC Fork and Screen)? SMG’s been stealing movie goers from the two existing Northpoint theaters. It’s a total guess on my part, but we’ll know soon enough.

Carrabba’s Italian Grill – Avenue Forsyth

My friend Aldo Nahed at the Forsyth Herald broke this story last week. Carrabbas submitted plans to Forsyth County to build on the empty parcel between Chic-Fil-A and Red Robin. It’s a prime spot although traffic sometimes jams up here. And while chain Italian restaurants don’t get me very excited, I expect this location to do well.

Ipanema Grill – Old Milton

I don’t have a lot of information on Ipanema at this point. They are looking at a strip mall on Old Milton in the space where Chip’s Southern Cooking used to be before they closed… a second time.

Cafe Efendi – Main Street

They re-opened Wednesday! Go check out their new digs in Durty Kelly’s former location on North Main Street. I went for lunch yesterday and really enjoyed my doner wrap. I wouldn’t expect any opening jitters from this established player.

Brindavan – Windward

Yet another name/ownership change for this small Indian restaurant in the double-decker strip mall on east Windward. My co-workers and I still call this place Andy’s, the original name of the joint. It became Dosa Houze followed by a series of increasingly more difficult names to pronounce. I ate here Tuesday and found the food and price to be almost the same as Sai Murali, the previous restaurant.

M Chocolat – Old Milton

Turns out this is the name of the chocolate store I’d been calling Dulce Chocolat. They’re now open on Old Milton Parkway just west of Park Bridge Road. I tried a few truffles and was impressed. They’re made in-house and the prices are more than reasonable relative the competition. Being so new I’d give them some time to expand offerings before passing judgment.

Jilly’s Cupcakery – Roswell

Yesterday Jilly’s opened their second location in a strip mall on the corner of Mansell and Highway 9. I normally don’t cover events in Roswell but I thought this was noteworthy. I’m happy to see these ladies doing well as they run a fine shop.

Coming Soon

Saigon Cafe - Their opening seems imminent yet the chain isn’t publicizing a date. I talked with them over email this week and still couldn’t get a date out of them.
El Molcajete - Mexican restaurant set to open in Zola Bistro’s old space on Highway 9 in Milton.
Alfresco - Corner of Old Milton and Main Street in Alpharetta.
Bread Time - Still no word on when this German bakery will open on South Main Street in Alpharetta.
China Inn - A relo from Chamblee. They’re still building out their location on 141 in Johns Creek near the hospital.
Bassano -I was able to confirm with the new owner that they are NOT affiliated with the former Bassanos on Jones Bridge in Johns Creek. Look for the new Bassanos on State Bridge were Tasca Latin Bistro used to be.
Construct a Burger - They are looking at space near GA-400 at exit 13. Still no word on exactly where that might be. If I had to guess I’d say the Hangry’s space or Bad Bob’s old location.
Meat & Potatoes - The potential name of a restaurant to be located in the old Rio Bravo/Star Diner space in Johns Creek.

Photo credit: Ildar Sagdejev (creative commons)

Soup Du Jour

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

This past Tuesday was like most days at work. I walked out of the office at about 11:30 while contemplating which Alpharetta restaurant to patronize. Then it hit me – an unexpected blast of freezing air. It’s not something I’m accustomed to during my lunch break. It made me crave a hot bowl of soup and also inspired this week’s Foodie Friday article.

No soup for you!

Most restaurants have a soup on the menu or maybe a soup du jour. Here are a few that stand out in my mind or have otherwise gained a reputation. If you have a favorite soup at an Alpharetta-area restaurant I’d love to hear about it.

Chili at Never Enough Thyme

I’m not a huge fan of this hoity toity sandwich shop. I seem to be the wrong gender each time I walk into their shop for lunch. But when I do eat here I almost always order the chili. It is the best, most authentic bowl of Texas-style chili you’ll find in Alpharetta. No beans about it! The meat is sirloin cut into cubes. The gravy is rich with deep beef flavor. This chili will stick to your ribs on a cold day. It’s by far the most manly thing on the menu at NET.

Carrot Jalapeno Soup at Boga Taqueria

Yeah, I just reviewed these guys, but I didn’t talk about the soup. Boga’s got a few soups on the menu but you really should try their carrot jalapeno soup. Don’t let the jalapeno in the name fool you as this isn’t a spicy soup. It’s creamy much like a butternut squash soup. I wouldn’t be surprised if this isn’t the base of the soup. The carrot flavor doesn’t jump out a lot to me, perhaps it’s more for color. But the jalapeno is subtle and delicate. It’s just enough spice to contrast the creaminess.

Matzo Ball Soup at The Corner Deli

I’m writing about matzo. Oy vey!

Let’s be honest – I wouldn’t know a good matzo ball if the traditional Jewish dumpling smacked me across the face. So take what I say with a grain of salt (and make it Kosher).

There’s something I enjoy about the simplicity of Corner Deli’s matzo ball soup. Sure, it’s just chicken in broth, some carrots and a dense matzo ball. They say chicken soup is good for the soul and I’m not going to disagree.

Coconut Soup at Satay House

It’s been a few years since I’ve been to Satay House so I hope they haven’t changed things around. But their coconut soup is far and away the best in town. It’s rich and intense with a solid core of coconut flavor. Satay makes it with a few pieces of chicken, some mushrooms and no lemongrass.

Honorable Mentions

I’ve not tried every soup in town. Here’s a few more that receive consistently positive reviews…

Beer Cheese Soup at Norman’s Landing - It’s not available everyday. I know some loyal fans who’ll call ahead to see if it’s on the specials board.
Tomato Basil Soup at Wildflour - A popular soup and salad choice. I regret that I’ve not tried it but I never want just half a sandwich here!
Never Enough Thyme on Urbanspoon

Photo credit: Americasroof (creative commons)

Bite – Alpharetta

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

To round out 2011 I’m going to run a short replay series in my Friday food column. Today I’m re-printing my review of Bite, Alpharetta’s best new restaurant of 2011.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again… the best pork you’re likely to find in north Fulton won’t come from a barbecue joint. You’ll find it in unlikely places like Bite.

Their red chile pork tacos are getting a lot of attention, as they should. They start by rubbing pork shoulders with chiles before smoking them. Next the pork takes a bath in a mole sauce braise. The pork is then pulled and cradled in a corn tortilla. These morsels of swine are smokey, tender and bursting with flavor. The texture contrasts with a crisp pickled jalapeno slaw and a creamy goat cheese.

Bite quietly opened several months ago behind the Webb Bridge post office in the old Field Good location. It is an intimate space with just a handful of tables and some seating overlooking an exposed kitchen. I suggest sitting here to observe the chefs in action. You’re close enough to smell the lemon and garlic as they hit the saute pan.

The decor is modern yet sophisticated and classy. I appreciate Bite’s artwork, photography on wrapped canvas. The restaurant will certainly appeal to affluent women from east Alpharetta and Johns Creek, drawing those who might frequent restaurants like Never Enough Thyme or Wildflour. Their distance from the offices on Windward and Old Milton should keep most of the cubicle dweller riffraff away (with the exception of yours truly, who was willing to brave Windward’s bevy of four way stops to get here).

These guys at Bite are serious about layering flavors and textures in entrees like tacos, sandwiches and salads. The menu makes prodigious use of cheese, many varieties are smoked in-house. Check out the pimento cheese, made daily. Or how about the cotija cheese on their “street corn” side dish as an alternative to boring Parmesan. I’m by no means a cheese snob, yet I enjoyed this cheesy grilled corn.

Bite’s steak sandwich both impressed and disappointed. The combination of caramelized onions, white cheddar and a sweet fig sauce on ciabatta bread was fantastic. The use of filet medallions was impressive on a sandwich, yet the steak wasn’t very tender. Unable to shred them as I was biting, I was left with entire medallions in my mouth. I was forced to discretely consume a pretty big hunk of cow that I’d hoped would have lasted for several bites.

However, none of the sides have disappointed. Bite’s potato salad hits your taste buds with a pungent tarragon kick. You can’t go wrong with the pickled jalapeno slaw or the aforementioned street corn.

Bite is a winner and will likely add themselves to many a favorite restaurant list. Try them before they completely overwhelm this small space. I’m surprised they don’t have lines out the door.

South Forsyth’s Underappreciated Restaurant Scene

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

To round out 2011 I’m going to run a short replay series in my Friday food column. This week I’ll reprint this column on South Forsyth.

They are the Rodney Dangerfield of the suburban food scene.

For generations, south Forsyth’s restaurants catered to the taste of indigenous locals. Not much stood out aside from a few decent country cooking joints. At the same time, the area avoided attracting the chain and franchise establishments that continue to plague Alpharetta’s reputation.

Today, south Forsyth’s restaurant scene is coming of age. Chains are slowing cropping up at new developments like The Avenue Forsyth. But for the most part, the area is thankfully free of them. Independent restaurateurs are beginning to take chances with more creative menus and local ingredients. They are also recruiting talent in the kitchen. Nearly every restaurant I’ll mention has a culinary school graduate running the show.

Here are a few restaurants that are either up-and-coming newbies or much lauded regional favorites… and they are all in south Forsyth. While this area has a long way to go before they compete with somewhere like Roswell, I still think they deserve attention. What other joints do you think stand out?

BW Tavern

A changing Forsyth demographic was one reason behind Mulligan’s transformation to BW Tavern. The local dive joint was a popular smokey hangout for locals to down a few beers. But new partner Alex King recognized the untapped potential of this diamond in the rough. As affluent suburbanites displace more and more locals, the need for smokey dive joints diminishes.

So far I’ve been impressed with BW’s creative twist on tavern food.

Dutch Monkey Doughnuts

What hasn’t been said of this small doughnut shop near The Avenue? Their amazing success has attracted reviews from far and wide. I’d go so far as to say DMD is one of the best independent doughnut shops in the southeast United States. Yet I didn’t used to think this way.

I was a little skeptical when they first opened, and gave a mediocre review on Yelp. It’s been fun to watch (and taste) as their talent and creativity blossomed. Husband and wife team Martin Burge and Arpana Satyu are both graduates of the French Culinary Institute and have impressive resumes. Their whimsical use of fresh, local ingredients and fruits keeps me coming back monthly. My waist line disapproves of anything more often!

Scootz Gourmet Grill

Chicken Piccata at Scootz

Note: Scootz is no longer in business.

Scootz may have already obtained burger supremacy in south Forsyth. It didn’t take long for this converted Cici’s Pizza to attract a loyal burger following. But Le Cordon Bleu alum chef Eric Banks does a better job with the rest of the Scootz menu. While not as creative as their new competitor down the street (BW Tavern), Scootz is executing simple dishes extremely well.

BB’s Bagels

Dough with holes in the middle. South Forsyth does this well. Like Dutch Monkey, every food writer in metro Atlanta has written about BB’s. Their original location on McFarland Parkway has become a south Forsyth institution. It’s mecca for Atlanta’s ex-patriot Yankee community. Don’t believe me? Show up on a Saturday morning and listen to the banter.

The AJC recently rated BB’s as the best bagels in Atlanta. Their chewy, water boiled bagels are a weekly treat for me. However, I don’t find the rest of their menu very compelling. The exception may be their corned beef hash. Delicious.

Casa Nuova

The Fundora family was farming their own produce long before it became hip for a restaurant to do so. Today their farm produces so much product for their restaurant they often send customers home with extras. My wife and I scored a small bag of squash and zucchini on our last visit.

I’ve read some reviews that question the authenticity of the Italian food at Casa Nuova. The criticism is undeserved in my opinion. The Fundoras are originally from Cuba but that doesn’t keep them from making some amazing Italian entrees. My favorite is the chicken francese.

The Chocolaterie

Stunningly beautiful works of edible art. Made in-house daily, the truffles at The Chocolaterie are exquisite. My favorite is the blue butterfly which is hand painted to exceptional detail. It’s a shame to destroy these little creations with your teeth. When you finally do, the snap of tempered chocolate gives way to velvety smooth ganashe.

These little morsels of chocolatey goodness are not cheap. They may very well be the most expensive food, per bite, of anything in the area. But they are a sinfully good treat. The Chocolaterie is tucked away in The Avenue Forsyth. Serious chocolate snobs should seek them out.

Photo Credit: Robyn Guy Photography

Alpharetta Restaurant News – December 2011

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

Lots of changes coming to the restaurant scene, particularly in Johns Creek. Let’s get right to it.

China Inn – Johns Creek

Buford Highway comes to Johns Creek! Well, it’s not exactly Buford Highway but it’s close enough. China Inn has been an institution in Chamblee for thirty years. In October they closed their location on Peachtree Industrial due to disagreements with the landlord and increased rent.

Instead they inked a deal to lease the former Modavi restaurant at 11625 Medlock Bridge Road. This will move them out of an aging strip mall and into a free-standing building. They will have more space and exposure to an affluent and growing Asian population in Johns Creek – and they’re getting it all for less rent.

China Inn’s move to the burbs is significant and the story isn’t being told locally. This article in the Dunwoody Crier is about the only story on the move. It’s more of a lament on the loss of a local institution. Their loss is our gain!

Johns Creek is on the cusp of becoming a destination for authentic Asian dining in metro Atlanta. Welcome to the neighborhood, China Inn!

Tasca Latin Bistro – Closed

They had a talented chef and delicious food. I became worried when Tasca started hitting Groupon and Scoutmob all the time. It wasn’t enough to save this place as they closed a few weeks ago. A sign on the window suggests the next tenant might be…

Bassano’s – Johns Creek

I’m still a little unclear on this one. There used to be a Bassano’s Pizzeria on Jones Bridge where Rosa’s is now. I’m not familiar with that former restaurant and I’m not sure if this is the same restaurant. I do know that there is a Bassano’s Pizzeria in Loganville and these are they guys opening the new Bassano’s on State Bridge in the old Tasca space.

Bread Time – Alpharetta

Thanks to Travis Allen for info on this place. Bread Time will be a German bakery and will open on South Main Street where Mama’s Taqueria used to be. I still don’t know much more than that. I hear they will have German wine and beer. I’m a sucker for a good Bavarian hefeweizen.

Meat and Potatoes Kitchen & Bar – Johns Creek

This will be the name of a new restaurant to open at 5710 State Bridge Road. This outparcel has not been friendly to it’s past occupants  including Rio Bravo, Star Diner and others. I’m still researching this restaurant and the folks behind the concept. More to come.

Construct A Burger – Moving

They have closed their location on Post Road in the Midway community of south Forsyth. According to their Facebook page they are looking to re-open somewhere near exit 13 on GA-400. If you know where this will be, please let me know. Construct A Burger is an under-rated hamburger joint, and their french fries are amazing.

Coming Soon

Dulce Chocolat - Still no word on when they will open on Old Milton Parkway.
Saigon Café - Coming to Windward Parkway.
El Molcajete Mexican - Their sign went up this past week. They’ll be in Zola Bistro’s old space on Highway 9 in Milton.
Alfresco - Corner of Main and Old Milton. Look for an opening in mid-January.
Café Efendi - Relocating to the old Durty Kelly’s space on North Main Street in Alpharetta.

Azul Agave – Alpharetta

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

Before blogging I used to write reviews on yelp.com. And over on yelp they have an expression for a two-star review… “Meh. I’ve experienced better.” I keep coming back to this when I reflect on my dining experiences at Azul Agave. But let’s back up a moment.

Azul Agave opened on Old Milton Parkway a few months ago after a long buildout. I regret that I’ve never dined with this building’s past occupants. Had I done so I might have been prepared for the magnificent decor of this restaurant. Outside a small bridge spans a waterfall. Inside it’s spacious with beautiful stacked stone features and blue accents. I’m hard pressed to think of other Alpharetta-area restaurants that rival Azul Agave in looks and decor.

Unfortunately the same creativity and attention to detail that went into Azul’s decor didn’t go into their menu. It’s boringly divided into sections like fajitas, tacos and quesadillas. I meandered my way through its options, searching for something I couldn’t eat at El Azteca or La Parrilla. Nothing jumped out at me.

I settled on some fish tacos, which can be a good litmus test for a joint like this. The fish was a little dry and needed some help from a creamy sauce drizzled on top. The cole slaw was crisp and pretty good but no other toppings were available to provide a flavor boost. These tacos were, at best, a smidge past mediocre.

My wife ordered a steak quesadilla and found it to be on the greasy side. She wound up deconstructing it to salvage some morsels of meaty steak. Side items like black beans are just okay but lack depth or robustness.

In the end, I found the food at Azul Agave to be ordinary and lacking of creativity. They’ve got amazing decor and good service working in their favor. But even the hip and contemporary china can’t save the food resting upon it. Meh, I’ve experienced better.

 

Azul Agave Mexican Bar & Grill on Urbanspoon

Boga Taqueria – Milton

Chef Alfonso Huerta, left, and Medardo Briceno

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

Medardo Briceno has paid his dues in the restaurant industry. This soft spoken man from Venezuela has worked nearly every job in the business. He started in kitchen prep before working his way into the managerial ranks of Frontera, a chain of Atlanta-area Mexican restaurants. Following that gig he worked for food service distributor Sysco. Boga Taqueria marks a big stepping out, his first venture into restaurant ownership.

“I wanted to offer something different to Alpharetta, an experience like you would find in midtown,” said Briceno. So don’t let his history with Frontera set any expectations you might have of Boga. This restaurant is a far cry from the ubiquitous Mexican joints that fill suburban stripmalls. Speedy Gonzalez is nowhere to be found on the menu. That alone makes Boga worth a visit.

Boga’s menu is a mix of Mexican cuisine with some South American influences. Portion sizes are generous, especially for the money. Most entrees are priced in the $8 to $10 range. Atop the menu is their taco selection. For $10 you mix and match three tacos. The Taco al Pastor stood out. This traditional Mexican favorite of pork, onion, pineapple and cilantro forms a harmony of flavors.

More pedestrian taco choices are available, such as ground beef and shredded chicken. Boga pokes a bit of fun at these choices, labeling them as “gringo”. This gringo passed on them.

El Macho

A best seller is the El Macho. They start with a bed of lettuce and add a generous helping of braised pork or pulled brisket. Next comes black beans and a few pieces of mango to tease with some sweetness. A delicious lime vinaigrette is drizzled above that. Finally a large plantain is sprawled across the top. The presentation is beautiful. And don’t let the lettuce and vinaigrette fool you as El Macho does indeed live up to its name.

The talent in the Boga kitchen comes from chef Alfonso Huerta. His most recent gig was at Rio Nuevo on North Point. Owner Medardo Briceno described Huerta as “a MacGyver in the kitchen,” but not for judicious use of duct tape and Swiss Army Knives.

Huerta pulled a MacGyver with his dessert. His flan cheesecake was dazzling and amazingly delicious. It was the perfect marriage of two desserts that didn’t neglect anyone’s taste. The custard flavor from the flan was still there but the cream cheese brought a dense richness. The caramel on the plate fanned out with flames on the edges covered by a layer of chocolate sauce. It almost looked like a total solar eclipse. It was as beautiful as it was culinarily resourceful.

Music like Sergio Mendes’ “Mas Que Nada” dances out of speakers at Boga. It’s cool, hip and – more than anything – helps to create a cool vibe to this place. The modern and minimalist decor doesn’t hurt either as it’s very well done. If this restaurant thing doesn’t work out, Briceno might consider a career in interior decorating. The work inside was all his effort, not contracted out.

But the decorating world will have to wait on Medardo Briceno. Boga Taqueria should be a serious contender for Mexican food in this area.

Photo Credit: Robyn Guy Photography

Disclosure: I received free food from this restaurant. You can read my disclosure policy on my about page.
Boga Taqueria on Urbanspoon

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